![]() I don't know how deep/thick your floor slab is or if it is at or above grade but I have done sunken inner step to gain a couple of needed inches under outer stringer. "U" rafters also were secured up into above metal stringer and 45ed on lower corner for head clearance. If worried some well placed 2" angle iron can double it's load capacity. It is over an open season treated porch deck so 100% water proofing is not critical and it has held snow up to 3' thru blizzards until I could clear it. ![]() I saved more height by making my rafters out of two 2x4s nailed to the sides of a 2x3 and turned my purlins flat and halved the spacing. This let my oversize my stringer for extra strength and gave my several more inches to increase my pitch to about 3/12 instead of a flat roof I would have had to have if stringer was underneath metal. ![]() Your pitch is too low for any snow to slide off the lower end anyway and my roof was only 14' wide so roof raking from the sides was not a problem. I have done similar except that they farthest out lowest stringer rafter was placed above the roof surface and the roof metal extended underneath and was washer screwed from below up into it(every rib of the pole barn type metal). Since it is a porch roof a little leakage would not be critical as long as none of it can get into your main structure wall, IMO. An added measure or protection would be to add ice and water peelable rubber membrane. Drip edge should be installed over the felt paper on the rake edges or side roof edges, and under the felt paper on the bottom or horizontal edges. Any opinions or advice ? I hate building projects. Be wise and add felt paper and drip edge to your shed. I realize I will have to remove any heavy snow we may get. So really I'm asking if a 1:12 pitch with metal roofing will work ? Yes it's not ideal, but it's what I got to work with. I plan to run 2x4 purlins 24" OC on top of rafters and install exposed fastener metal roofing, exposed framing underneath. I would hate to take down the beams and Simpson bracket to remove 1 1/2" from all the post to gain 1/4" or so of pitch. I can't go any higher on the house side, If I drop the beam by 1 1/2", putting the top of the beam at 6'2" it changes pitch to just over 1:12, gaining only slightly more slope. From the bottom of the rafters to the deck on the house side is 7' and from the deck to the top of the beam is 6' 3 1/2"" which gives me just under a 1:12 pitch. Rafter length from ledger board to beam is 7' ,with a 12" overhang. Much appreciate any input on this.My roof over the deck project is coming along, slow but moving. Overall I was thinking this should be sufficient to avoid roof spreading. Finally, I have some heavy duty 90 degree metal attachment pieces which I was thinking of using them to tie in the doubled up 2 x 4s. I also was thinking of using blocking under the rafter directly above the top plate to avoid having to cut birdmouths into the thin 2 x 4s. I was also thinking I could double up two 2 x 4s glued and screwed under those 48" on centre rafters (also can double up the rafters in the same way). I was thinking to add small gussets on all rafters near the top and do a more full bracing and gusset on two of the rafters at 48" on centre. I'm thinking I should be OK with using a 2 x 6 ridge board and have the 2 x 4s on 24 inch on centre over the wall studs. I'm thinking of having an 8/12 or 9/12 pitch which would work out to a rafter lengh of either 57' or 60'. I'm working totally on my own so would rather use 2 x 4s as I won't have anyone to help level things out, etc. I'd really like a rafter roof rather than trusses for a more open feel, for some storage space (nothing too heavy). I'm thinking blocking every 24" will be sufficient. For that reason I'm going to put in horizontal blocking. I plan to use 1" x 6" cedar channel siding installed vertically.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |